Trailer / tie down question.

[ShaneG]

Where to buy good tie down straps?

What load rating should I be looking for?

I saw these at CT
http://images.canadiantire.ca/media/images/products/images/Assortments/PrimaryAssortments/Automotive/TruckVanSUV/TarpsTieDowns/0402625_450_CC_7204d.jpg

Ohhhh "race car" tie down but the load rating seems quite low!

Princess Auto also has with a similar rating (1650 lbs - 5000lbs yield)

I have seen a bunch of higher rated straps but they are an open hook - no snap to prevent a loose hook from disengaging?!?!?

*(PA has a wheel tie down strap with, IIRC, 10,000lbs yield)

I assume I am looking in the wrong places! any thoughts?

[TomL]

Remeber, there are 4 straps, the combined weight is way less than the limit.

[Slowpoke]

You do want to tie down the wheels (ideally) to allow the suspension to move during transport.

I know the ones that I bought at Canadian Tire were $40 or $45 and I think had the 10,000lb rating. The same load rating goes on sale at PA every once in a while for $25.

[AndrewW]

We order our straps from Dave at Intruder Trailer in London. They are snap on hooks and are not made in CHINA. If I remember correctly they are around $45.00 per strap. Here is their link http://www.intrudertrailers.com/

Andy

[AndyC]

http://www.etrailer.com/c-ctd.htm

Shane - I bought the following,
#08504 2"x7' 10k-lbs Ratcheting straps $23.95 each
#58505 2"x24" 10k-lbs axle straps $8.95 each

I put the axle straps through the wheels ,the 24" length is just long enough on a 225/50/15.
The D ring is 3.25" wide and goes through th 6 spoke Kosei's and Volks - if you have wheels that have less than 3.5" between the spokes, you will have to get axle straps with out D rings. The D ring has to go through the wheel flat [not on edge] since there is not much room between the rotor and the wheel and that is why I did not go with built in axle strap version #08424 On this one the large hook will not fit through the wheel.
Andy C. 416-266-1780

[Matt]

Woah now... You don't want the suspension of the car to move freely. That will create a bouncing effect that could get unstable. If your trailer and car start oscillating opposite from eachother, you're putting massive load spikes on your tie downs. Use your car's tie hooks located under the bumpers, and strap it down tight enough that the suspension starts to get pulled down. Always cross-tie too. I use 4 canadian tire tie straps. My car does not move at all during travel.

[AndyC]

I have to differ on that. If you tie down to the suspension or frame ,each time the car bounces on bumps the straps will go loose and then tighten on the rebound. By going through the wheels this is eliminated and the car does not move at all on the trailer, Yes the suspension does move about but it is unrestricted and this does not affect the towing .

[Matt]

Tieing tightly to the car does not allow any movement of the suspension at all. The load is one solid piece attached to the traler then. If you're tieing throught he whels, the bulk mass of the car is able to move opposite from the traler and pull up/forward/back on the straps. Flat bed car carriers use the tie hooks that are built into the car for the purpose of tieing down the car. Maybe we should be looking into some road regulations on this topic so we're all sure.

[AdamH]

I just use regular straps from crappy tire...

and I load the suspension I put 2 hooks up front in the nose through the tow hooks...and two hooks round the rear suspension points...then use the excess to tie the wheels to the trailer in case it ever wanted to roll...

been towing 9 years now with that set up no issues yet..

Adam

[Slowpoke]

Tieing tightly to the car does not allow any movement of the suspension at all. The load is one solid piece attached to the traler then. If you're tieing throught he whels, the bulk mass of the car is able to move opposite from the traler and pull up/forward/back on the straps. Flat bed car carriers use the tie hooks that are built into the car for the purpose of tieing down the car. Maybe we should be looking into some road regulations on this topic so we're all sure.

You have cheap suspension. Go ahead and tie to the frame. :) If you're hauling long distances, you can damage the dampers by tieing the frame down tightly and not allowing the suspension to do what it's supposed to.

Towing short distances around the GTA... go ahead, do whatever you want.

[RacerRobb]

I've towing race cars for more then 25 years and will always use the secure the wheels configuration when the situation allows. Personnally I like the basket type strap that secures the wheel to the trailer - been doing it this way for more then a decade.

The natural movement of the car on it's suspension does not cause any concern, in fact, it is a much smoother ride for the race car, the trailer and the tow vehicle.

Robb

If it's good enough for Porsche then it's good enough for me!

[Maxi]

I'm with Robb and Andy. I secure the wheels and allow the suspension to move naturally. Less stress on the straps, hooks, and trailer, plus it does seem to provide a smoother ride all around. I've done some long-distance towing like this (VIR and back), plus tons of local towing over the last 5-6 years and so far so good.

[ShaneG]

Well, on my maiden voyage I tied the front at the tie-down loops on the chassis and the rear to the wheels - crossed . BTW I loaded the car rear facing forward to reduce the tongue weight. I also left the winch attached to the loop at the back and just to for a little more overkill, I fed a strap through the same loop and tied that off also.

I had no (towing) issues that trip...and am really glad I had the trailer:(:):confused: (not sure which is the true feeling)

The Pathfinder was a little underpowered, but better that I expected. the hills going into Mosport were actually no problem as long as it was not a race. the trailer pulled straight with absolutely no concerns. Even being a little anxious as it was my first time, I felt relaxed and confident - hopefully not overly so. The brakes were really good. I could feel the trailer brakes working, but also felt pretty good about the Pathfinder brakes. (I installed PBR ceramics (Thanks Carl) last fall and they are working really well) (No panic stops luckily)

Thanks to everyone for their input.