Transmission rebuild shops?

[Nova_Dust]

Third gear is grinding, seems like an usual Honda problem. Well, it grinded at high speed shifting on Sunday when I was at Shannonville and clutch broke, too (but I got that fixed). Somehow, with a Stage1/2 clutch, the grinding seems to be less noisy, but it still does (above 5000 rpm or there about).

So I am wondering how much a transmission rebuild/change the synchro would set me back. I probably should have done it while I was changing the clutch on Monday but that shop doesn't do transmission, and I need my car back on the road so I can get to work today.

Also wondering if it is worth the time to do ATS close gears. But I read it that ATS gears need some type of conversion if used in JDM 98 spec transmission.

Thanks again for the help HADA.

[eg6ajk]

3rd gear synchro comes with sleeve which is about $300 or so. Would recommend ISB as well. Add to that about $400-500 for labour if you dont have the tranny out.

personally i would go with MFactory gearset, 3-4-5th and throw some new GearSpeed synchros and 3rd gear sleeve in there..


http://www.gearspeedinc.com/products.htm

[Nova_Dust]

Thanks Adrian. Definitely not a cheap job or parts by any means...

Also, when you sold me the motor, do you recall what 2nd gear I have? Like it is JDM 98' spec ITR tranny but I forgot what gears are in it.

[Maxi]

Turtle can do the labor for you if you want. Give him a call at 416-565-0005. He's away this weekend (Watkins Glen KONI Challenge) but is normally around during the week.

Closer gear ratios and/or a higher final drive are always a nice addition to a track car, since shorter gearing means faster acceleration. But in reality gearing tends to be very track-specific, so if you gear the car really short for Shannonville, you'll find you're between gears and/or run out of gears at a track like Mosport. With B-series engines, I've found a 4.7 FD with regular ITR gears is a good overall setup for most of the tracks in Ontario and is still quite reasonable on the street. If you want to be more hardcore, shorter 1-4 gears is great, along with a standard 5th gear for highway cruising, or just swap in a 4.9 FD and live with the higher RPM on the highway. There are so many options, it's impossible to say which is best without know exactly what your intended use is, but Turtle can give you some good advice on this since he's played around with virtually every gearing option available for B- and K-series transmissions.

[MilesM]

Dale at Import Specialist can also do it. Think he's done some work on your car before tuning the B20. Great guy and like Turtle, stands behind his work.

A 4.7 is pretty high on a low reving b20. A 4.9 would mean you're running out of gear. Remember Hanif running out of gear on his b20 down the back straight of Mosport with a 4.4FD. You're ratios are almost perfect right now IMO.

BTW, you can put off that rebuild for a while if you double clutch 2-3rd. Hell, just double clutch every gear. The lifting of the clutch between gears does the work of the syncro. I ran an entire season with a busted 2-3rd and 3-4th. Busted syncro for me means double clutching. Busted gear means rebuild. ;)

[Maxi]

Oh wow, didn't realize we were talking B20. Unless you've built the bottom end for high rpm, then yeah a stock ITR gearbox is perfect.

[HBomb]

+1 B20 with stock ITR gearing is pretty much ideal. I was within a few hundred rpm of redline at the top of the hill approaching corner 8 at Mosport GP.

[LeeW]

+1 B20 with stock ITR gearing is pretty much ideal. I was within a few hundred rpm of redline at the top of the hill approaching corner 8 at Mosport GP.

If you catch a draft off a cooperative turbo Porsche, you can hit the limiter. :)

[pigeon]

+1 B20 with stock ITR gearing is pretty much ideal. I was within a few hundred rpm of redline at the top of the hill approaching corner 8 at Mosport GP.
What speeds were you at by that point approximately?

[Nova_Dust]

The pressure plate is pretty hard now, well compare to stock. I guess I have to suck it up and get used to the hard paddle and double clutch when possible.

Thanks for the info guys, I guess everything stays the same. Also using the new Honda MTF now with friction modifier. See how that works out.

[wildoutwhitegsr]

I hated the new mtf in the tranny, and couldn't get the old mtf. So I just grab the gm syncomesh friction modified.

[HBomb]

What speeds were you at by that point approximately?

Just under 200 kph. Theorethical max at rev limiter is around 209 (7050-7100 rpms).

Hanif

[Nova_Dust]

I hated the new mtf in the tranny, and couldn't get the old mtf. So I just grab the gm syncomesh friction modified.

Really? mmm...

I still have 3 bottles or 4 of the old MTF.

[Nova_Dust]

I have been doing double clutching for up shifting now (down shifting still takes time to practice, especially with heel/toe), engage is smooth even at high revs, like 7500 (for testing purposes) and third gear does not grind. Thanks Miles for the recommendation. Looks like I just saved myself thousands of dollars with one extra clutch paddle haha.

[MilesM]

Hehe. That trick has saved me many rebuilds to date. Try competing with a 15 year old a single Sycro cable tranny mated to a B20Vtec. Is it any wonder that I had 3? Fricken things were like glass. After a while you get pretty good at it and feels weird to single shift. Make sure you have a good seat position and a steering wheel spacer I find helps make more leg room. It's only a temporary solution. Eventually the gear will fail, but I figure once the tranny is out and apart it's only another part that had to come out anyway to replace the syncro. ;)

[mxqisit]

Turtle can do the labor for you if you want. Give him a call at 416-565-0005. He's away this weekend (Watkins Glen KONI Challenge) but is normally around during the week.

Closer gear ratios and/or a higher final drive are always a nice addition to a track car, since shorter gearing means faster acceleration. But in reality gearing tends to be very track-specific, so if you gear the car really short for Shannonville, you'll find you're between gears and/or run out of gears at a track like Mosport. With B-series engines, I've found a 4.7 FD with regular ITR gears is a good overall setup for most of the tracks in Ontario and is still quite reasonable on the street. If you want to be more hardcore, shorter 1-4 gears is great, along with a standard 5th gear for highway cruising, or just swap in a 4.9 FD and live with the higher RPM on the highway. There are so many options, it's impossible to say which is best without know exactly what your intended use is, but Turtle can give you some good advice on this since he's played around with virtually every gearing option available for B- and K-series transmissions.
Any idea if Turtle does rear-ends too? A few of the Miata guys are looking for someone to install a new ring-n-pinion.

[pigeon]

Any idea if Turtle does rear-ends too?
Sorry, I just thought that was funny :)